Coal Shed Brighton steakhouse Raz Helalat moves

What:​ A deceptively large restaurant in Brighton​​ with an eclectic menu that’s largely cooked over an open fire. On North Street, The Coal Shed Brighton has a small frontage that gives way to a cavernous, high-spec space that’s been cleverly divided into five distinct dining areas. With space for just under 150 people, the restaurant is among the largest in the city of Brighton & Hove.

Who:​ The Coal Shed Brighton is the latest project from Raz Helalat, whose Black Rock Restaurants group is also behind Brighton’s The Salt Room, Burnt Orange and Tutto, as well as The Coal Shed London. Launched in 2011 just off Brighton’s famous West Street, The Coal Shed was Helalat’s debut and was one of the first restaurants in the UK to feature a Josper grill and specialise in high-quality dry-aged beef, joining the likes of Hawksmoor and Goodman. Well aware that neither of these things is a USP any more, Helalat worked closely with his newly appointed executive chef Lee Murdoch to redefine The Coal Shed’s concept. The change has been a long time coming – was originally scheduled to be released ​about 12 months ago– but it shows just how far Helalat has come as a restaurateur, with the new The Coal Shed Brighton representing one of the biggest restaurant investments the city has ever seen.

The food:​ The menu has been elevated and expanded, with Helalat and Murdoch striking a balance between keeping things affordable and giving people the option to splurge on premium ingredients. And while fire-cooked meat remains at the heart of the menu, the duo has also worked in a variety of fish and vegetable dishes to broaden the restaurant’s appeal beyond hardcore carnivores. Snacks and smaller plates include buttermilk fried chicken with bread and butter pickles and hot sauce; watermelon ceviche with avocado, sesame milk and smoked shishito peppers; smoked pork ribs with nappa cabbage slaw; and half a blue lobster with mango, cashews, nam jim and sesame served with tacos. More substantial dishes, meanwhile, include Black Duroc pork chop with roasted apple, sesame purée and heirloom carrots; and open-faced sea bream pil pil with garlic, chilli and clams. The steak offering is split into two. The restaurant offers a fixed-weight selection of classic cuts, including a 200g fillet and a 300g ribeye, as well as more adventurous cuts that are priced by the 100g, including the Australian wagyu tomahawk (£19) and the Irish heritage-breed porterhouse (£13). There’s also a dedicated bar menu that features dishes like grilled kimchi with cheese and pickles; and a burger that involves a double-crushed salt-aged beef patty and truffle cheese fondue.

To drink:​ One of Helalat’s main motivations for changing The Coal Shed Brighton was that it lacked a proper bar area. He’s fixed that and then some with a beautiful bar at the front of the space that offers a wide range of reimagined classics that draw influence from the cocktail traditions of London and New York. Options include the Spiced Pear Daiquiri (spiced rum, lime, Crème de Poiré, demerara); Fat Old Fashioned (Evan Williams washed with beef fat, bitters, salt); and Spicy Guava Margarita (Cazcabel Blanco, lime, guava juice, gochujang, agave). Starting at £28 a bottle for still wine, the wine list is extensive, offering around 30 cases by the glass and another 15 or so for Coravin.

The vibration:​ Designed by Helalat and Sara Fenn – who work with some of the biggest names in the business including Gordon Ramsay Group, D&D London and Dishoom – the space has the feel of a very contemporary New York steakhouse, with its exposed brick and dark wood panelling. Upon entering the main entrance, guests are greeted with a bar area that has a more casual feel. This gives way to a more luxurious restaurant area that has no less than three private dining rooms (some of which can be used as an extra restaurant). The largest of these – The Flamingo Social – seats 26 guests and has its own bar, private entrance and dedicated sound system.

And another thing:Brighton resident and big beat legend Fatboy Slim caused a stir at The Coal Shed Brighton launch party with a surprise set.

Clarence House, 30-31 North Street, Brighton BN1 1EB​
www.coalshed-restaurant.co.uk​​